Sunday, 28 September 2008
The times they are a-changing
Thursday, 25 September 2008
Homage to Catalonia - part 4
Back in the city, on our last day around town before flying home we revisited my favourite aspect of Barcelona from our last visit together three years before - Park Guell. As testament to my now well-developed obsession with the work of Antoni Gaudi, we visited his unique urban concept: inspired by a certain style of gardens in England (hence the Anglicised 'k' in 'park', as opposed to a Catalan 'c'), he recreated one in his own vision, where palm trees sit beside unmistakable tiling and ceramic work.
I mentioned to my girlfriend that the Catalan people specifically, and the Spanish is general, weren't afraid to deface or even set fire to stuff they didn't like, that was affected or lessening their standard of life (this observation I made with more than just a hint or admiration). Of course, my companion put it pretty straightly: "Well," she said, "if you fight for your freedom in your own country, you aren't going to think twice about splattering something in paint". Quite right. I can't read Catalan, but I think it says something about the apartment building spoiling their views...
The park sits almost on top of el Carmel hill, a steep escalator ride up to the top which did provide some rather unique views.
Although they were nothing compared to what you might see when you actually reach the park.
And as if I needed to be convinced any more of the national willingness to nail their political colours firmly to the mast, here was further proof.Dotted around the park are a number of small buildings, the purpose of most of which I don't know, but they I still enjoy them all the same.
The centrepiece of the park is this large, open, parade ground-like area, the far edge of which lined with benches of smooth, brightly colour ceramics and mosaics.By the way, did I mention the views? As with the Sagrada Familia, Gaudi's fusion of natural forms and the raw physical logistics of construction and structure is evident here. In case you can't see her, my missus is peeping out from behind one of the pillars, the wave pattern arrangement of which I always stop to take in a while. On the way out, the park has more beautiful, vibrant ceramic work in the shape of fountains, and one particularly popular dragon. Catalonia, and more specifically Barcelona, is a unique place that you have to visit. Don't just take my word for it.
Homage to Catalonia - part 3
The town itself has plenty of good restaurants, and plenty of good enough repute for us to be unlucky trying to obtain a table on a Saturday night without booking first. The town is also within a stone's throw of the legendary El Bulli restaurant, one of the few eateries with three Michelin stars in the world, let alone in this part of Spain. It has been voted 'The Best Restaurant in the World' four times since 2000 - this is the standard we're talking here. Needless to say we decided the credit card wouldn't stretch to even bread and oils, and dined elsewhere.
Tuesday, 23 September 2008
Homage to Catalonia - part 2
The level of detail is quite exceptional, more so on the outside (which is, ostensibly at least, rather more complete than the interior) and the audio we procured before starting our tour gives an informative narrative on what you're peering up at.
The imposing bronze doors bear rows and rows of scripture, with the occasional detail picked out in gold.Inside the church, the sheer height of the vaults is the most striking feature. That, and the building work going on down at sea-level. The audio tour includes comments from the current architects who are working on the project, and who have contributed to the exterior. Whatever controversy greets each new stage of construction and the pangs of indignation even an architectural layman like me might feel at someone other than Gaudi himself working on the building, the encumbents seem to know their stuff. If the outside is anything to go by, then the inside is in safe hands.Gaudi was influenced by natural forms throughout his career and in the Sagrada Familia these are as evident as ever. The entire structure is shot through with shapes resembling flowers; botanical shapes inform the pillars which soar up to support the roof.
Sunday, 14 September 2008
Homage to Catalonia - part 1
Such is the British obsession with Spain as a package holiday destination, it is all too easy to forget that is a rich and vibrant country with much to offer those who would rather stay at home in rainy Suburbia with a dose of the flu than visit one destinations favoured by so many of their countrymen/women each summer.
Barcelona is a fabulously cosmopolitan city, alive with colour and energy in its nightlife, food and architecture. It's Mediterranean climate drenches it in sunshine and consistently high temperatures for most of the year and its people are proud of their heritage - counting themselves as Catalan first and Spanish second (or, in some cases, not at all). All of this makes the area feel singular, different. Catalonian culture and language mark it out as distinct from the rest of the country.
Our base was my girlfriend's grandfather's house in Colonia Guell, a village about a half an hour away from Barcelona proper but a world away from the hustle and indeed the bustle of the city, its position on the end of a metro line belying how restful it feels in comparison.
Such is the way in countries like Spain, the relatively simple-looking exterior of the house hides a beautiful, unmistakably Mediterranean interior and garden. Below the large deciduous tree is a small pond, home to a number of wee turtles who pop up for a feed whenever you chuck thin slices of chorizo into the water. Or they might be tortoises, I can never tell the difference.The village was founded by Eusebi Guell, most proflific patron of Catalan national treasure Antoni Gaudi. Its also home to a stunning church of the same name, which some say it is his great unfinished masterpiece, and has attracted controversy in recent years after additions were made. Barcelona's cultural powers-that-be are no strangers to controversy, but more of that later. No pictures of that, sadly, but there isn't always enough time...
The city has an abundance of beautiful squares in which to sit and while away and afternoon, cafe solo in hand. Below is the view of the cathderal, just a few streets away from the busy shopping area around La Rambla.
Gaudi's touch isn't just present on a large scale. His work crops up in some of the smaller, low-key elements of the city's landscape, like the lamp-posts in the square below.In contrast to the historical flavour of much of the city, down by the port is a huge new complex of shops and restaurants. It's set at the end of a wide pier, which takes you from the Barcelona of old to the Barcelona of now, but the feeling is one of sympathetic juxtaposition, rather than stark contrast.More soon.