Our final stop on our north-to-south tour of the United States, San Diego, has it all. As soon as we left the Greyhound and stepped out into that Southern Californian air we had precisely the kind of warm, welcoming feeling that was conspicously absent in Los Angeles. We were staying the Gaslamp Quarter - the beating, nay, thumping heart of SD's downtown and centre for entertainment and dining in the city. It's a beautiful old neighbourhood, its vitality coursing from the many bars, restaurants, cinemas, theatres and shops which line its historic streets.
And then there's Petco Park, the city's brand-spanking new baseball stadium, home to the San Diego Padres. We arrived on game night, and so with our intention to drink in some real America, we bought ourselves the cheapest seats available for the section known as 'the bleachers' (the equivalent on 'the Gods' in a British theatre) and settled down with a hot dog and some nachos. As the sun set the giant scoreboard's illumination and the huge floodlights bathed the stadium in a fantastic, albeit unnatural, light for the remainder of the game. After it was over (the Padres, apparently, suck - losing 7-2 at home to the Cincinnati Reds) there was a huge firework display. Fun for all the family, and only $15 apiece.
The day after our dose of "America's Pastime" we headed for the harbour. San Diego is many things, but first and foremost it's a maritime city. The US Navy has had facilities in and around the city for years (including the famous Miramar, which was the inspiration for the 'Top Gun' movie). The USS Midway, the Navy's longest serving aircraft carrier, is now in permanent position in the harbour, retired after its lengthy service. It is, quite literally, huge.
The famous photograph of a sailor returning from wartime to the arms of his sweetheart is reproduced in the form of 30-odd foot high statue.
Balboa Park is one of the most beautiful city parks you'll see. It's centrepiece is El Prado, a long, wide promenade running east to west, home to the city's key cultural complex which includes a number of museums and cafes, and further north in the park is the world-famous San Diego Zoo. El Prado's buildings are just stunning, built in the Spanish Revival style (a blend of Spanish and Latin American influences).
There are also a number of smaller gardens, littered with beautiful, ancient trees, cacti and roses of every imaginable colour in full bloom.
Not only does San Diego's city centre hold so much, it's also only a few miles away from the city beaches. We spent 3 nights at Ocean Beach. The main strip has an abundance of bars, pubs and cheap (but very good) restaurants, paving the way down to the glorious beach. But another great feature of San Diego is that it's only 15 miles from Mexico, and so one afternoon we headed south of the border...
Not wishing to be kidnapped, shot, robbed or murdered by marauding trigger-happy cocaine smugglers, we avoided Tijuana completely, driving straight past it and heading for the much quieter, but equally tourist-friendly, Rosarito, around 20 minutes further south. The beach is a vast swath of fine white sand but there are only really 3 main places to sit out and drink. However, each takes the form of a gargantuan nightclub-type affair (the kind of thing you might expect to find in the 'lads on tour' holiday destinations of Malia or Magaluf - right down to the smelly toilets and open-air dancefloor) so there was no danger of feeling crammed in. Our attentive waiter supplied us with cheap food, even cheaper cocktails and ludicrously big bottles of beer all afternoon while we relaxed in the sunshine. Our driver even had her hair braided.
The main part of the town is surprisingly quiet, but if the posters adorning the outside of the nightclubs were anything to go by, come Spring Break the whole town is awash with pissed-up American college kids, consenting to having tequila poured down their throats and munching on cheap burritos.
We headed back later than afternoon, a little sun-blushed and slightly tipsy, content that we had sampled Mexican hospitality. Further up the coast from Ocean Beach is La Jolla, quite easily the swankiest place we'd been to on our entire journey. It doesn't boast huge lengths of beach, but it does have a beautiful sheltered cove, totally protected from the wind (not to mention natural, only fine-ish sand that doesn't stick to a freshly sun-lotioned leg or arm).
Below is the view from a 1st floor restaurant at which we ate a (very reasonably priced) lunch.
San Diego has everything - beautiful weather (given its extremely southern position, only a few minutes from Mexico), a fantastic, welcoming centre and downtown, great beaches, and just about everything else you could want fro a city. It's testament to the appeal of the place that we were genuinely sorry to leave.
Our American journey had finally come to a most satisfying end.